The setting is the metal part that goes around your finger and holds your precious gemstone. The part of the ring that encircles the finger is called the shank. As such, the shank must be designed to be comfortable to wear. The head is the part that typically holds the gemstone and is often called the setting. The head, or setting, ahould hold the stones securely while accenting their beauty. The gemstones, dhank, and the setting should appear to compliment each other as a complete ring.

Setting Types

Here are the most popular ways to set stones:

Prong
A prong is a narrow piece of metal that folds over the edge of the gemstone to secure it. Prong settings are most used as they elevate a stone to let the light shine through and accentuate the sparkle of diamonds. This makes prong settings the most popular for diamond solitaires. Depending on the shape of the stone, three, four, and six prong settings are typical.
Channel Set

Smaller stones are closely set in a row between two metal walls with small grooves in them that hold the edge of the stones. No metal appears between the stones. Channel settings often include square and baguette stones, but can be used on other shapes as well.

Tension Set
Tension settings are an exaggerated form of channel setting. The stones are precariously set in grooves between two metal appendages or between the ends of the entire ring band. The tension of the ring itself pinching the stone between two grooves holds it in.
Pavé Set

Pavé comes from the French word to pave because it looks as if the ring is paved with gemstones. The gemstones are placed very closely together and the only metal visible is the bare minimum required to hold the stones in place.

Bezel Set

A bezel is a small band or tube into which the stone is placed and the edges are pressed down to capture the stone.

METALS
Metal is the key to the design of a setting and will give your ring both durability and beauty. Of course, Pandora & Pendragon™ would never limit your selection to just the basic gold or platinum. We also carry settings in sterling silver, stainless steel, titanium, and combinations of gold and titanium or gold and platinum. If you don't find it on this web site, contact us. By and large, the largest selection of truly fine jewelry with expensive gemstones is manufactured using gold or platinum or combinations of the two.
Gold

Pure gold is a very soft metal and would be unsuitable for settings. The shank would quickly wear thin and the head would bend causing your gemstones to fall out. To solve this problem, gold is alloyed with other metals as karat gold (not to be confused with the “carat” used to measure diamond weight). Alloying increases gold's hardness and can be used to produce a variety of different colors (such as white, rose or pink gold). White gold contains about 10 - 20 % nickel, plus zinc, copper, platinum, and palladium. These alloys make white gold a harder (and slightly more expensive) metal than yellow gold. The K (karat) number identifies the purity of the gold. When you see a K number on our website, this specifies how many parts, by weight, of pure gold is contained in 24 parts of the alloy. The K number or a three-digit number signifying the percentage of gold will be stamped inconspicuously on every piece of jewelry. Thus the following K numbers would mean:

14K = 14/24 or 58.33% pure gold (the stamp would be either 14K or 583)
18K = 18/24 or 75.00% pure gold (the stamp would be either 18K or 750)
24K = 24/24 or pure gold

Additionally, purer gold has deeper gold color than less pure gold alloys. Thus, 18K gold is the best compromise for color and strength. Gold does not tarnish, but even 14K gold may require some maintenance to be sure the setting hasn’t loosened or the shank hasn’t worn too thin.

Platinum

Platinum is the strongest precious metal used in jewelry and is much heavier than gold. Platinum is more scarce than gold and is more expensive than gold. Platinum is popular for many diamond engagement rings because some feel the exceptional luster of platinum enhances the brilliance of diamonds. Platinum in jewelry is an alloy of six heavy metals - platinum, palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium and osmium. Modern platinum is frequently alloyed with copper and titanium as well. Also tarnish-resistant and generally hypoallergenic, platinum is the only precious metal used in fine jewelry that is 90% to 95% pure. Platinum jewelry is marked 900Pt, 950 Plat, or Plat.

What Do I Pick First – The Diamond or the Setting?

First, read our section on buying diamonds. Then, if you have specific ideas (color, size and shape) about the diamonds or other stones you desire, pick out the stones first (see our loose stones section) and then pick out the setting (see the settings in our rings section). If you want a setting that makes a bold or specific statement about you and the stone is secondary, select the setting and then find the stones to complete the effect. Either way, once you’ve decided, place your order and we’ll assemble the ring for you and ship it to you within 1 to 3 business days. If you don’t really know, browse the finished jewelry until you find something that suits your personality. If you only come close, hat’s fine. Contact us with your selection and let us know what would make it perfect for you and we’ll help you with the rest.

Always Be An Informed Buyer
Pandora & Pendragon™ provide this information to help you be a confident and informed Internet shopper. We know that your satisfaction depends both on your ability to make knowledgeable choices and our ability to exceed your expectations. We guarantee each piece of jewelry will meet or exceed the description we provide on this web site. However, this information is not a substitute for the analytical or appraisal services of a credentialed jeweler or gemologist. Prior to purchasing any particular diamond or piece of jewelry, you should consult with a credentialed jeweler or gemologist to expand on this information. Please consult the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) web site for more information. The GIA serves as an independent third party, offering grading and identification services that are the most highly regarded in the gem and jewelry industry.

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